As the weather begins to warm up in February and March, our thoughts start toward pecan fertilizer applications.
Correct fertilization is critical for pecan trees to achieve optimal nut yields. The process of fertilization begins with a soil test. There is still time to take a soil test to improve fertility. One note of caution is that lime if required, can take up to six months to take effect. Typically, the best application time for lime is late fall. For more information, refer to the HGIC video, How to Take a Soil Test.
One question I get is how to determine the amount of fertilizer to apply.
The soil test recommendations suggest an amount of fertilizer per inch of trunk diameter. How do you measure this?
Example:
We need to apply 1 pound of fertilizer per inch of tree diameter.
We measured 3 feet around the tree (36 inches)
Divide 36 by 3.14 giving 11 inches diameter
11 times 1 pound would be 11 pounds of fertilizer per tree.
Begin the application 12 inches from the trunk and spread it evenly around under the tree out to the drip line (outermost branches).
Note, wait to apply Nitrogen until the buds begin to break.
For more information on growing pecan trees, see HGIC 1356, Pecan Planting and Fertilization.
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Snake plants, or Sansevieria, add character to indoor spaces with their striking appearance. Though easy to care for, choosing the right fertilizer can help them thrive. This guide explores the Best Snake Plant Fertilizers options, providing detailed insights.
This Pecan Topped Pumpkin Bread is a must for your fall baking and pairs exceptionally well to any Thanksgiving menu! Want to give it an extra burst of sweetness? Then be sure to add those optional white chocolate chips! This bread makes two loaves and it freezes really well. For more information on freezing checkout HGIC 3065, Freezing Prepared Foods. Enjoy!
Harvesting pecans can be a tedious task, but with these tips, homeowners can ease the burden and keep more delicious pecans for their own consumption. When the nuts fall to the ground, one must either bend-over or use some type of tool to gather them. As the nuts fall off the tree for approximately a three-week period versus a one-time drop, it is important to gather the pecans every day. Finally, a portion of the nuts remain in the husk which are attached to the tree’s branches and must be shaken or hit with a large stick to dislodge and collect them. Additionally, competition is fierce for these tasty nuts with squirrels, deer, and turkey helping themselves at every opportunity. If not thwarted, crows are the number one culprit and consume approximately 15% of a one tree’s harvestable nuts.
As winter gives way to spring, gardeners get that familiar itch to get outside and begin preparing for the coming growing season. With so many tasks to do, it is easy for well-intentioned gardeners to succumb to the marketing of fertilizer products that contain pre-emergent herbicides. Why not combine the two jobs of fertilizing the lawn and applying pre-emergent herbicide to control those pesky summer weeds in one fell swoop?! As is often said, ‘If something sounds too good to be true, it probably is.’ Such is the case for pre-emergent herbicide and fertilizer combination products.
There are two approaches to fertilization. First, have the soil analyzed by a reputable lab and follow the scientifically based recommendations. The second often referred to as “a general approach,” is to buy a bag of fertilizer and follow the instructions noted. The recommended method is to have the soil tested and analyzed. This informs us which nutrients are required and the specific amounts. This method is the most cost-effective and environmentally friendly way to approach fertilization. Soil test results provide us information on which nutrients are deficient and the quantity to add to help improve the tree’s health and production.
When fertilizing peach trees in a backyard setting, consider tree age and growth rate, soil/tissue analysis, as well as location. Since peach trees do not produce fruit during the first two years after planting, less fertilizer is required than is needed for mature fruit-bearing trees. Visual indicators, such as leaf discoloration and weak growth, are symptoms of nutrient deficiency. Perform a soil test before planting to identify soil factors, such as pH that may cause certain nutrient deficiencies. For more information, see HGIC 1652, Soil Testing. Once trees become productive, test their nutritional status with a leaf analysis. In July, take a leaf sample consisting of 50 to 100 fully expanded leaves (at the 4th-5th node.) Take the sample from non-bearing shoots located at about 5 feet height throughout the tree canopy. If there are several similar trees in the same area, take a composite sample.
Strawberry season is one of my favorite times of the year. I always look forward to the sweet taste of locally grown strawberries. There are so many ways we can use these strawberries in recipes – pies, jam, muffins, and so much more! One of my favorites is this strawberry salad with candied pecans and pretzels. The pretzels add a perfect balance of salty with the rest of the sweet salad, and the pecans and pretzels add a wonderful crunch to the creamy salad. Enjoy!
While enjoying a slice of delicious locally-made pecan pie, I felt motivated to share with you some tips on growing and enjoying pecans. Whether you say “pee-can” or “peh-cahn,” they are one of the most nutritious nuts you can buy. Or grow for yourself!
The numbers on a fertilizer bag are the so-called N-P-K ratio, the percent of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash (or potassium, chemical symbol K) inside the bag. Simply speaking, nitrogen is for green growth; phosphorus is for roots, flowers, and fruit; potash is for general vigor and disease resistance. A so-called balanced fertilizer, often recommended in books, is one that has equal percentages of each element.With chemical fertilizers, the numbers are much higher than with organic formulations. A standard is 10-10-10 or 5-10-5, meaning there are those percentages of each element in the bag (the rest is filler). You won’t find those totals in any organic formulation. In fact, if the total of the three numbers on a so-called organic or natural bag adds up to more than 15, I’m suspicious. Unless blood meal—an organic material very high i
Helping me answer, as he does each month, is my friend and longtime garden writer and photographer, Ken Druse of Ken Druse dot com, author of “The New Shade Garden” and “Making More Plants” and many other favorite garden books.Read along as you listen to the Nov. 13, 2017 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here). If you have a question for a future show, post it in comments on this website, or on Ken’s website, or use our contact forms to email us, or ask us at Facebook.com/awaytogarden.the november q&a with ken druseQ. We’re at mid-November. How much frost have you had, and what zone ar
All those different fertilizer formulas in the garden center, labeled for particular kinds of plants, seem to imply that we need to add something, no matter what. But is that always the case? Lee, the author most recently of “The Ever Curious Gardener: Using a Little Natural Science for a Much Better Garden,” talked with me about building healthy soil and growing healthy plants. That’s Lee, above, with his nose in a handful of homemade compost, which we talked about, too.Plus: You can enter to win a copy of his latest book by commenting at the very bottom of this page.Read along as you listen to the June 24, 2019 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive o