Pruning Ideas, Tips & Guides

Fruit-tree pruning, as mentioned in the February garden chores, is a perfect way to get a mid- to late-winter jump on things.Cutting out infested Viburnum twigs loaded with viburnum leaf beetle egg cases before they hatch will reduce your problem with these tricky pests.The three D’s of dead, damaged and diseased wood, can always go, no matter the month. Survey the yard for such wood anywhere, on any plant. Eliminate suckers at the base of grafted trees and shrubs, like crab

Unless they are overgrown, lilacs don’t need much pruning (except the “musts” for every woody plant we all agreed recently that we’d keep up with, removing dead, diseased and damaged woody, or any that’s just not well-placed).But by doing a little pruning (read: cutting bouquets of flowers to enjoy) you do the plant a favor, and prevent the ugly aftermath of lilac-blooming season, those dried-up trusses that persist forever, or so it seems.

I have grown a lot of viburnums over the years, and have pruned them at various times of year for one reason or another. Usually viburnums need relatively little pruning, assuming you planted the right cultivar in the right-sized space (for example, not ‘Mariesii’ among the doublefiles, shown, but ‘Watanabei’ if you only had a smallish area). Even the lightest form of pruning, the removal of spent flowers called deadheading, isn’t needed with most viburnums, since what you want is fruit after the flowers (unlike all that deadheading with lilacs, for instance, to prevent messiness).POOR PLANNING TO BLAMEMost of the pruning I’ve had to do on viburnums was because I didn’t leave enough room for the plant to reach its eventual size, and poor planning (meaning my impatience to have a filled-in garden) caught up with me in time. I have cut several viburnums to the ground or the

Like other spring-blooming woody plants, the lilac produces its flower buds from late summer through fall for the following year’s display. Prune after, say, July 4th in the North and you risk reducing next year’s bloom. Prune in fall or early spring, and you guarantee that disappointment.A lilac is happiest if you cut bouquets from it each spring—essentially you are just deadheading it. Though not essential to its health or survival, the lilac isn’t really asking much but paying you heftily, since the trusses make extravagant indoor arrangements. You work a little, you win.A tip: before bringing the cuts inside, hammer the bottom few inches of the stem ends to split them, so they can drink up the water in a vase, or the flowers will wilt almost at once.Bonus: By

For a more detailed answer to each question, plus an extra question and answer or two, be sure to listen in. I’ve recapped the highlights below:Q. I have some plants in my garage that still have to be planted. Is it too late? I’ve never planted this late before, but I just got too busy with my job.–Michelle in Canada (hardiness Zone 5B)A. Yes—definitely get them in the ground, whether plunged (pots and all) or planted properly (removed from their pots first). I confess I often simply plunge

Take out the three D’s anytime they occur. The D’s are dead, damaged and diseased wood—and why wouldn’t you want to do this? (Some people say there are five D’s: dying and deformed being added to the list, but I’m trying not to get us overwhelmed.)Take out all suckers and “water sprouts” as often as required. This means that mess at the base of a grafted shrub or tree that looks like a thicket of shoots surrounding the trunk. It also means those things that shoot straight up vertically off a branch at a 90-degree angle or thereabouts from the branch, very common on fruit trees, say, or old magnolias. Look at the architecture of these shoots: If you left them on, what would they turn into? (They’d turn into the disaster in the photo below.) Nothing very u

As I told reader Lynn the other day, when she commented about her own snow-damaged landscape, I start working while it’s snowing. During the storm at several junctures, I gently knock heavy loads off some vulnerable evergreens, especially, to prevent buildup. I always use a broom where I can reach, and make my movements in upward strokes (not pulling downward, which further adds to the weight and can split the wood, especially in brittle pines, for instance).I never mess with ice-encrusted branches; too vulnerable. On taller specimens, I use a 10-foot piece of quarter-round molding (above) from the lumber store—my secret weapon, left over from a home improvement a decade ago. It’s about an inch thick, and the trick is it’s sturdy yet flexible, so I can weave it up into the higher branches and sort of wiggle it around slowly (in a small lasso motion) without inflicting damage

Each May and June I’m asked, “Why didn’t my lilacs bloom?” only to find out in the next sentence that the questioners had literally nipped the plants in the (flower) bud with late summer, fall, winter or earliest springtime pruning, long after the new year’s blossoms had been set.Early bloomers flower on old wood. Go out and look at a forsythia or a lilac: Unless you pruned in summer or fall, you’ll see flower buds already in place, dormant but there. If you prune now, it won’t flower now. Make sense?Generally speaking, don’t prune spring-blooming shrubs and trees more than a month or so after they finish blooming. After flowering, prune immediately. You will typically not harm the pla

LAST WEEK, BETWEEN edits on my next book, I gathered some friends and the proper tools and pruned–trying to erase more damage from last October’s snowstorm, and also the general stuff one needs to do late winter here each year.  Lots more to go, but we’re off to a good start–which got me thinking you might be wondering what to prune when and how. That’s the topic of this week’s radio podcast–and also of some useful stories in the A Way to Garden archives: From the Archives:New to pruning, or just a little rusty? Start with the pruning FAQs page.

Why waste energy over-efforting or over-powering a task? A traditional pair of bypass pruning shears might weight 8 or 9 ounces—like 224 or 252 grams—and the fruit pruners weigh like 4, or about 110 grams. Why heft twice the weight while gripping double the bulk, too? Yes, sometimes larger, stronger cutting blades are called for—but often what I am finding is that I can do most tasks with my snips, and if something’s really too big I use my favorite lightweight loppers.Other than weight and bulk, there is the added bonus of maneuverability in my choice of the smaller everyday shears. This of it this way: Did you ever try to use a regular pair of pliers when a needle-nose was really called for? The fruit pruners are like that, something that proved a real asset the other day when I extracted the oldest wood from the top tangle of a honeysuckle that was twisted around an

Staked plants will ripen faster crops of generally larger fruit. Stakes must be at least 1 inch thick and 6 feet high, inserted a foot into the ground.  Adding supporting twine between stakes (as in the photo above) helps add stability; some gardeners lash horizontal cross-pieces of bamboo between stakes instead. Either way, as the plant grows you continue to tie it to the support with twine or twist-ties.Remember: Staked plants require a commitment to ongoing pruning, keeping the plant to one or two main stems of vine-like, not bush, habit. All small suckers that develop in the crotches between the leaves and the main stem must be removed.good ‘tomato hygiene’WHAT’S MOST APPEALING to me is that staking can help with disease prevention, which actually begins with selecting an appropriately disease-resistant variety (Cornell has a list of what variety resists what).Certain fungal pathogens, such as septor

With Ginny, who has been at Longwood since 2000 and teaches a popular conifers course in the Continuing Education Division, we compared notes on our top conifers for the landscape, I learned how to prune them, and got a quick review of conifer taxonomy, what “dwarf” really means (hint: not ever-small), and even inspiration on her home-garden collection of conifers in pots.Read along as you listen to the Dec. 7, 2015 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).my conife

‘IT’S ENDLESS,” plantsman Michael Dodge (former owner of Vermont Willow Nursery) was saying over the phone a few years back. He was alluding to the possibilities of the genus Salix—the willows to which he has been devoting the recent chapter of his impressive horticultural career.  We narrowed it down to some best-of willow selections from about 200 in his collection—best willows for outsmarting deer; winter interest; abundant flowers and even best for making honey if you’re a beekeeper—and I also got a brutal tutorial on willow pruning (also known as coppicing) to share with you.best of the salix: michael dodge’s picksBest cut flowers:  Pink ‘Mt. Aso’ has “such a dense stem of flowers,” says Michael—some have 30 catkins along a space of 2 feet of stem.

With the right approach, anyone can prune a crassula ovata like an expert and keep this good-luck plant looking at its best. Note down the details shared below to learn How to Prune a Jade Plant Like an Expert.

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For many homeowners, inheriting an overgrown garden can be a daunting prospect. This is particularly true if the garden was previously well-maintained, planted to a high degree, and now seems to be teetering on the brink of chaos. The uncertainty on how to manage and tame the burgeoning flora can be overwhelming. But fear not, the experts at GardenAdvice are here to assist you in the arduous yet rewarding task of restoring your garden to its former glory.

Few plants can add the romance and cozy-cottage feeling to a garden like climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris, Zones 4–9) can. Whether it’s covering a semi-shady east-facing wall (an ideal spot), tumbling over a stone wall, or enveloping the trunk of a large, deciduous tree, climbing hydrangea can be a valuable asset, providing lush green foliage and masses of white, lacy umbels of flowers in early summer. Like many late spring and early summer flowering plants, climbing hydrangea is best pruned just after it blooms in late June so that new growth can form the next year’s flower buds by late summer. However, pruning right after blooming isn’t always practical because, like most vines, climbing hydrangea is a vigorous plant once established, and it can be difficult to see the overall structure of the plant with all of its leaves in full flush. Some selective pruning may need to be done nearly any month of the year, and that’s totally OK. But if you prune anytime from fall to spring, you may sacrifice some flowers.

Basil is mostly grown for its flavorful leaves, which can be utilized fresh or dried. There are different varieties of basil, with the most well-known being Sweet Basil, used to make heavenly pesto sauce. If you want to make sure that your plant stays lush and healthy, then follow these 2-Minutes Basil Pruning Tips.

Pruning Hydrangeas is not a difficult task; you need to do it at the right time of year. You will also need to determine if your shrub blooms on old or new wood. Follow these tips to ensure you’re pruning hydrangeas in the right manner to keep them blooming abundantly.

The jade plant (Crassula ovata) is one of the quintessential succulents for homes, and almost everyone loves to plant it because it is super easy to maintain. If you too are growing one at home, learn more about Pruning Jade Plant to Make it Bushier and Bigger!

Loropetalum, also known as the Chinese fringe flower, is a beautiful and versatile evergreen shrub that is native to Asia. In this article, we will discuss When and How To Prune Loropetalum – to help you keep your shrub looking its best.

Pruning Oakleaf Hydrangea is an important step to ensure the plant stays healthy and continues to bloom at the right time!

Pruning Rose of Sharon is an essential process to keep the plant in shape and to also ensure it blooms in the right manner. Here are the best tips and tricks you can use to increase the number of its flowers.

Do cherry tomato plants need cages? Most cherry tomatoes are indeterminate, meaning the vines continue to grow and produce fruit until killed by frost. Super Sweet 100, a very popular variety, can produce vines that reach 8 feet (2.4 m) long. If you don’t want cherry tomato plants sprawling all over the garden, it’s advisable to grow them with a support system.

Hydrangeas are a great way to add summer interest to the home landscape. Ranging in both size and color, hydrangea species available to flower gardeners are sure to delight. Though most of these plants are considered to be easy to grow, some seasonal care will be needed in order to ensure that each continues to produce an abundance of blooms.

One of my favorite plants is a bay tree that lives in a raised bed in my garden. Every summer, it usually doubles or even triples in size. And the secateurs are duly fetched.

Pothos is one of the hardiest houseplants in existence and will reward you with appealing evergreen foliage if you care for it correctly. And one of the best ways to care for it is knowing How to Prune Pothos So They Grow More!

Mature Rose of sharon bush can grow up to 12 feet tall and if you want to maintain its natural form you don’t need to prune it much. Basically rose of sharon flower buds appear from new growth and it needs to be pruned in late winter or early spring.

Crabapple does not need any introduction; it’s very popular because of the colorful and hardy nature. It is a low maintenance tree; however, it does require pruning from time to time. Even if it doesn’t require heavy pruning, knowing the right way is essential, so you don’t end up jeopardizing the tree’s health. Here are all the details on Pruning Crab Apple Tree the right way!

If you are not sure about Why and How To Prune Herbs, then don’t worry. Here’s a detailed guide onEverything About Pruning Herbs to help you out!

I’ve got to admit, I have a laissez-faire attitude when it comes to gardening.I don’t mind leaf litter scattered around, and I l

Forsythia is a deciduous woody shrub that thrives in full sun and average, well-draining soil. It’s an iconic harbinger of spring in USDA Hardin

When to prune, how to prune, where to prune? There’s no other task that strikes fear into the heart of most amateur gardeners as does the subject of pruning plants.Yet successful pruning can be among the mos

Forsythia is an easygoing shrub for USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 8 that is best known for its bright yellow springtime flowers.And while we consider it t

A reliable pair of pruning shears is one of the best gardening tools you can buy when it comes to keeping your plants and trees in good health. «Pruning shears are an essential piece of every gardener's kit,» says Rose Ray Studio RoCo, a biophilic design studio in the U.K. «They come in handy for removing brown leaves or dying stems, for plant propagation and for shaping plants to encourage growth.»

It was brought home to me one afternoon as I looked out my bedroom window to see if I could find any flower buds on my Magnolia campbellii that bloomed so heavily last year. I saw no newer buds but I did notice some of my other plants were taking up much more space than they should and some were getting shaggy. Pruning ornamental shrubs and trees calls for all of the same tools that are used for roses and fruit trees, plus a good pair of hedge shears.Cuts on ornamentals may need to b