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Q. How can I tell when the time is right to harvest my winter squash and pumpkins? Some of the vines have almost completely died down while leaves remain on others.
A. When a squash or pumpkin has matured and is ready for harvesting, the stem attached to the fruit will have turned woody. In most cases, it will also have turned brown. And the skin should have hardened. When you make the cut to sever a squash or pumpkin, leave five to eight cm of stem.
To further harden the skins and “cure” harvested squash and pumpkins prior to storing them, first make sure they are clean. Then place them in a warm location (26 to 29 C) for a week. After the curing period, they will store best a cool site, ideally between 7 and 10 C.
Q. What can a garlic lover do when consuming raw garlic begins to cause digestive upset? I love growing and consuming garlic. Is there a way for me to enjoy it without discomfort?
A. You could try roasting garlic cloves lightly before using them in foods. I often peel garlic cloves, place them in a heavy pan that has a lid, and drizzle them with olive oil and a tiny bit of water. To avoid burning the cloves, I roast them in the covered pot at a modest heat, around 250 to 300 F, until they are soft. You may find the garlic more digestible this way. It is certainly milder. Store in the fridge for up to a week.
For garlic mashed potatoes, I steam the cloves along with potato pieces until both garlic cloves and potatoes are tender and ready to mash together.
At this time, the garlic is still fairly fresh after harvesting. As time goes on, the
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You may have noticed that the Rocky Mountain region—especially if you moved here from either coast or the South—is notably lacking in broadleaf evergreens. That is because these evergreens are more prone to burn from both winter sun and wind—as well as to suffer winter water loss—than deciduous woody plants or needled evergreens. As a result, gardeners in our region must select and site such woody plants more thoughtfully than gardeners in other regions. Of course, what we call “Rocky Mountain” is really more like two regions: one that reliably retains winter snow cover, and one that does not. The three broadleaf evergreen natives described here, however, do well in a variety of gardens and exposures.
There is no other spring flower filled with as much color and optimism as the tulip. However, in order to create a dazzling seasonal display in the garden, you must give some careful consideration to planting your bulbs.
When the cold weather hits, we crave the comfort of a toasty, warm space. But the warmth we’re talking about isn’t from stepping out of the icy wind. It’s the feeling you get when you’re enveloped by a welcoming space—an unmistakable but hard-to-put-your-finger-on sense of comfort.
We’ve visited Susan Esche’s home garden before (A Garden Wedding, the Flowers, and the Deer), but today she’s taking us along to visit a public garden in Vancouver, British Columbia.
Garden for long enough and you eventually come to the inevitable realisation that for several perfectly good reasons it’s not that easy to create a memorably good winter pot display. Why not? First and foremost is the fact that unlike its summer equivalent (a completely different creature) you can’t simply stuff a winter container full of lots of frothy annuals, heat-loving, dramatic foliage plants, gauzy grasses, and showy, frost-tender perennials and then hope for the best. Instead the planting must be chosen to be resilient in the face of cold winter winds, heavy rain and frost, as well as tolerant of short days and low light levels, while somehow still being decorative enough to justify its prime position for up to six months. It’s quite the ask.