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Ancient Cooking at Butser Farm
21.08.2023 - 12:00 / theunconventionalgardener.com / Emma Doughty
Ryan and I first visited Butser Ancient Farm on a blustery, cold day in February 2014. We loved it so much we decided to take some workshops there this year. Ryan is booked on a sword-making workshop next month, and we both recently spent a morning there learning about ancient cooking.
Whilst cooking inside a replica Iron Age roundhouse can’t really be considered to be outdoor cooking, it was a chance to learn some techniques that we would now use outside (to avoid burning the house down!). The hearth is set up in the centre of the roundhouse, and furnished with various things for cooking – including two trivets and a pair of cast iron Welsh bakestones, already heating.
After a quick tour of the site we settle down to making our own lunch. We pair off and attempt a different dish each. Flatbreads were on the menu, along with oat cakes. Fish cooked in dough, quails eggs with celery salt and deep-fried (not very authentic!) beancakes. Ryan and I opted to make pottage, an ancient bean-based stew.
It wasn’t so different from making stew at home, to begin with – it involved a lot of chopping. There wouldn’t have been much fat around in the Iron Age, so our leek (no onions yet!) and herb seasonings were fried in the fat from bacon lardons. Then we added celery and mushrooms, some dried fruit, some tinned beans and some fresh broad beans. A stock cube and some homemade cider provided some flavour and some liquid – we added some water periodically as it boiled.
The quails eggs were cooked in water heated by hot stones that had been baking in the fire. The trick is not to use too much water…. Once they had been nicely hard boiled and shelled, they were dipped in celery salt and served on a bed of watercress for a starter. Very tasty!
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