Bachelor’s buttons grown from seed are my perfect example of the adjustment enthusiastic gardeners must make when they relocate.
I was a kid in Williamsburg, Virginia, which had long springs and sandy soil. In those days, I would carefully tend a small packet’s worth of these annuals in a four-by-four-foot garden plot, deadheading each spent bloom.
We didn’t plant until June, and there would still be plenty to pick for our favorite teachers when we returned to school in September.
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When I moved to Knoxville, Tennessee post-college, lo and behold! Between the earlier springs and the rich, heavy soil, people had entire side lots blanketed with blue in April.
Often, birds planted them, or they self-seeded. Also new to me (gasp!), householders might mow the whole bunch of them in May – and the flowers often rebloomed in another carpet despite the insult.
In the years since, I’ve adjusted my own planting methods to reflect those different growing conditions and the attitudes of each region’s gardeners.
The experience has left me with a wide range of know-how about planting bachelor’s buttons from seed. I’d like to share some of that with you.
Here are the tried-and-true lessons I’ll cover:
Bachelor’s Button Basics
With my affinity for Texas Hold ‘Em tournaments, big-screen late-model smart phones, bread machines, and that sort of thing, I’m seldom referred to as “old fashioned.”
But my affection for heirloom bachelor’s buttons reveals my old-school side.
These dainty annuals, with the botanical name Centaurea cyanus and the alias “cornflower,” are naturals for cottage gardens and
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